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January 13, 2008 - Taxco, Mexico

Written by GingerBlossom Published in
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Well, I´ve really come down in the world, at least here in Taxco, and I think it´s all good. Usually I stay at the Posada San Javier, way up on the hill. It´s got beautiful grounds, a swimming pool that´s too cold to use, and it´s really quiet - but - its also gotten too expensive, especially since I´m on the road longer this year, I really need to watch the budget. So I´m way down the hill, close to the bus station, but it´s got great views of looking up at the town, several sunny terrazas, and a friendly dog and cat, plus potted plants, windows that open to catch the breeze, and lots of noise. It´ll be just fine.

It´s also got Alex. He grew up pretty much in the States, from kindergarden up until he was 18 years old, which was four years ago. He´d been in the states the whole time, illegally, and then got in a car accident - it was bad, he´s short a kidney, has a pretty significant scar on his head, and a major limp and was deported.- But as he said, he really appreciates life now, as it can totally change in instant. Out of the mouth of babes. Everyone has a story. I wanted to get a story from the tamale vender last night, but she was too busy squabbling with her husband, so I want to go back tonight, both for a story and fresh homemade tamales (if it had a green salad with it, I would´ve given it 4 stars for a meal, both in the bread and circus catagories - sitting on the steps of the church watching the world go by, with a plate of chile and cheese tamales - eat your heart out, Rick Bailis.)

Most of the silver places are closed on Sunday, so I went to museums and did a little bit of looking for what´s new in Taxco silver. One of the things that I saw that I really like was the liquid silver teamed up with Swarovski crystals. I also went to the William Sprattling museum, he´s the gringo who revived the moribund silver industry in Taxco, starting in 1930. I had told Chris that I especially liked the Taxco silver because it was almost a white silver. He´s sold silver for much longer than I have, so he scoffed at me, said that sterling was sterling, and there was no difference.

I asked one of the silversmiths last year why the Taxco silver was whiter, and he said that it was in the finishing, but maybe he just told me what I wanted to hear. But Spratling had a good quote (sorry, its my translation, so it might be a little loose)"The true color of silver is white, like that of the hottest heat, and that of the coldest cold. It´s also the color of the first food that man takes, and the color of light".

I also went to the local museum at the Casa Humboldt, it was the second time that I´ve gone. They have an 18th century catafalque, or funerary celbration piramid, for lack of a better description. It´s a funeral alter, painted canvas with 4 sides, each representing an aspect of death. The amazing thing is that its the only known one still in existence, and it was uncovered from the Santa Prisca church storeroom during the 1988 restoration. There was other things, too, that were unearthed then. Sometimes the church hid their valuables during times of unrest and revolution, I wonder how long these things were hidden for.

I have yet to go to the Sta. Prisca church on this trip, might do so tonight, it´s done in the Churreisque (sp?) style, I call it Mexican Baroque - if you can gild it or throw on some cheribun, then do so.

Taxco really is one of my favorite places in Mexico, its only 3 hours south of Mexico City, if anyone ever gets a chance to go, I´d highly encourage you to do so. The Guerrero countryside is spectacular and Taxco is the crown jewel. They´ve tried to save as many old buildings as possible, and new buildings have to be done in colonial style, but its a real, working town, not all dolled up like San Miguel de Allende. Plus the food - three kinds of pozole alone - I´ve got enough time to try them all. There´s one restuarant that´s a favorite with the locals, its the Sta. Fe, and its been around a long time. What I liked was all the pictures on the walls, of the Beautiful People, but circa 1970, spred collars,bell bottoms, side burns, high hair and serious eye liner.